Town & Country

Getting Culturally Acclimated

Over the past two weeks, I’ve felt like I’m settling in to life in Liberia. I’m beginning to adjust to the food (including what body does not tolerate); my work schedule and responsibilities have become more crystallized; I’m better understanding Liberian English; I have a greater sense of the geography; my workout routine is better regimented; I’m becoming acquainted with the local churches; and I’m making friends with my co-workers, the staff at my guesthouse, local businessmen, the regulars at the gym, and the community members and government workers with whom our organization works.

One cultural element that I’ve picked up on during the last two weeks is that there is not a sense of rushing and busyness that we find in American culture – especially in DC. I think that this value of taking your time is fairly common in many parts of the world, but it’s just a bit of a culture shock for me coming from DC, to be working with community leaders who do not necessarily have a full agenda for the day or another engagement to rush off to. I’ve noticed that this slower-paced lifestyle, allows community leaders to become very invested in their work. During meetings, it also encourages people to ensure that their voice and viewpoint is heard in a way that may be considered long-winded or “talking to hear yourself talk” in the States. However here it’s seen as respectful to allow folks to get their entire point across and feeling fully heard – even if that means a roundabout way of getting there or repeating oneself.

Another related cultural practice is calling just to say hi. Many have called me with seemingly no motive other than to say hi and wish that I have a great rest of the day.

In general, I’ve felt very welcomed into every community that I’ve been to thus far. Before one meeting, the leader even invited me into his home to eat and chat, before getting started. He even offered me a chicken as a welcome gift.

Weekend in Monrovia

This past weekend, I was able to take a break from Ganta and head to Monrovia or “to town” as Liberians call it. My co-worker and I got really fortunate with the weather – two sunny days in the middle of rainy season. On Saturday, we spent the day at Tropicana Beach and went in the ocean for a bit – but the dangerous currents kept me very close to shore. In the evening we met with fellow expats at Mamba Point restaurant hotel for dinner – an upscale venue built for foreigners and the Liberian elite. The night in the city was a fun change of pace, especially meeting with government and NGO workers from all around the world who are committed to Liberia’s development.

On Sunday, we went on a run through the city to the ruins of the Ducor Palace Hotel. The hotel was built in 1960 and was once one of only a few five-star hotels in Africa. The hotel was built as a meeting place for African and other world leaders to congregate for important conferences and events. The hotel closed in 1989 – shortly before the onset of the civil war. Over the course of 14 years of war, the hotel was looted and essentially destroyed. Many squatters even moved in to live in the empty rooms. The government eventually evicted these folks and now the property sits abandoned with a few security guards who will let you explore for a small fee.

     

We also had plans to visit Monkey Island – a real life “planet of the apes” island where monkeys who were once used for hepatitis research now live freely. Unfortunately, due to poor living conditions for the monkeys the tour guide is not doing many tours right now, so this trip, may have to wait until next time.

Monrovia is a big city and a stark contrast from the countryside and the image of Liberia that I’ve grown accustomed to over the past 3+ weeks. But I do think it was good for me to see how the other half of the country lives, and take a break from rural living while doing it.